You MUST know this when buying a SMALLER GREENHOUSE

People are more likely to opt for more smaller greenhouses than one large one. They have a stable structure and once erected, they can last for years. Also, compared to large greenhouses, they require much less investment, and the money can be distributed according to plans and financial circumstances.

Many use smaller so-called low greenhouses and are quite happy with them. They serve them well, and the only problem may be supporting pipes which are quite thin than in larger greenhouses and if they are exposed to wind gusts can collapse, and the wind can tear the foil. What do you need to pay attention to when planning their purchase?


You are free to buy the largest dimensions that can fit on the intended area. It is recommended that the arches be up to 1.5 meters high, and length that provides good ventilation is some 6 to 10 feet. Constructions can go up to 20 meters in length, but then you have to count on pockets of “dead”, unventilated air in the middle.


The north-south direction is ideal to keep all tall plants in the same shade during the summer and to prevent overheating during the summer heat.

Construction turned in east-west direction is exposed to the midday sun, and in warm climates it is not recommended during the summer. It also involves shading the plants on the north side when those in the middle grow during the summer.

However, people’s experiences say that you can successfully grow plants of any position you choose. Another thing to pay attention to is leveling the terrain on which the greenhouse stands because any slopes make it difficult to water and mulch crops.


Plants love fresh air and they should be provided with it before striving to achieve the highest possible temperature. Air flows from one end to the other and if possible, it would be desirable leave an opening of some 15 centimeters, between the top of the door and their frame, so that small amounts of air always enter and increase the level of carbon dioxide. By applying this method, winter salad, for example, winters healthy, without the appearance of any mold on it, without the door having to be constantly opened and closed for ventilation.

The option of installing side air vents is not necessary nor suitable for vegetable production due to the fact that the temperature in the tunnel is lowered too much during the winter, and the door itself provides the flow of sufficient air. Side airbags should be used for some larger constructions.

You need to know this: What to look for when buying a small greenhouse (polytunnel) - © Agromedia

Polyethylene attached to ground level or buried

Many recommend burying the foil in the channels on both sides to create a barrier that will protect crops from pests such as rabbits or snails, then prevent weeds from growing and dry and cold air from entering the plant leaf zone.

On the other hand, it is easier and faster to attach the foil at ground level to a stand. However, in order to do that, you first need to dig holes for the supporting pipes, and you will also need some concrete. All this increases construction costs and only makes sense if there is no place to dig a canal around the greenhouse.

Support pipes

When burial foil in the canal, the pipes need to be driven into the ground to a depth of 30-45 cm, in order to give the construction the necessary strength. In that case, the pipes are not a support in order to keep the structure upright, but their function is to keep it stable when the wind blows.

In the variant where they are fasten the foil to the base without burying it in the ground, load-bearing pipes play a much more important role because they keep the structure in an upright position, so it is necessary to purchase more expensive pipes with metal holders at the ends and fill the holes in which the pipes will be placed with concrete.

Foil replacement

Polyethylene is a material that requires replacement every 5-8 years, depending on how windy the area is and how stretchable the material is. It is easier to tighten if left in the sun beforehand. You will be able to tighten the foil in January as well, but the surface will still be looser and more susceptible to damage than when done in warm weather.

Foil type

Various types of foils have become available and have made it difficult to choose. However, the most expensive variants of thermal or anti-condensation polyethylene do not justify their price. The recommendation of experienced returnees are standard foils that let in about 89% of daylight. You should choose those intended for horticulture that contain UV stabilizers, without which the foils would become too brittle and break in less than a year.

Source: Permaculture

Source: Agromedia by

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