Trekking in the remote Mustang Kingdom, somewhere in northern Nepal – Nepal

There are moments like this, of real silence. Such was the moment on a roof in Choseng. A small village between desert and peaks of snow. evening. A bell swings slowly on a calf’s neck in the farm below, gently echoing into silhouettes of valley and mountains. The sky here is different, stars and the Milky Way like I’ve never seen. It’s strange, seeing the sky from a different angle, and so bright, in complete darkness. Maybe the combination of the altitude, the proximity to the sky, the clean air, the desert. The sky is here, it envelops you.

After a time of observation, unintentionally meditative, one can notice more peaks, hear more echoes, more distant; The bell of calves or sheep that have not yet fallen asleep. Maybe hungry, maybe lost.

For a long time I waited for this moment, to reach the mysterious and beautiful kingdom in the Himalayas

There is heaven

The Kingdom of Mustang is in a remote area and there is quite a bit of procedure involved in getting there. This is a protected and politically complex area that requires an expensive permit and the accompaniment of a guide through agencies. We arrived at the trek after a long and exhausting 10 hour drive from Pokhara to Kagbeni, on the way with many souvenirs left by the storm that hit Nepal a week before (and my frequent closing of the eyes). There is also the option of a luxury flight to Jomsom, usually more expensive and you lose the view on the way. It should be noted that there is a sharp increase in height from Pokhara to Kagbani and this can cause headaches. In Kagbani there is a sleepy check point and from there the ten days of the permit actually start to be counted. Three asthmatic tourists, equipped with oxygen cylinders, welcomed us. “It’s high here, but it’s offset by the quality of the clean air.”

For a long time I waited for this moment, to reach the most beautiful and mysterious kingdom in the Himalayas, according to the rumor that was circulating at least among the Nepalese porters and guides I met. Last week we were still on our way to Manslow but the storm had its say and we had to cut short. Our charming guide, Modo, instead of telling us about the glorious heritage of Meneslo, cheering us on a little in the shadow of the rescue helicopters that accompanied the road, did not stop talking to us about Mustang. A week later I found myself here.

Choseng Village

The first village we sleep in is Chhusang (Chhusang/Chhuksang). We walked for a few hours but the village and its people took us back and we decided to stay; Apple orchards and corn fields between red cliffs and mountains of snow and desert. Our arrival was accompanied by whistles, the meaning of which we did not understand at first. Later they turned out to us as cries of the village women for the coming of the wind, a call for help in the work of separating the chaff from the bar. Everyone is in the fields; summer, gather together to harvest the grain. It gives the impression that the women are running the affairs, throwing instructions to each other in an authoritative tone, carrying, moving. The men sit to the side, talking, amused. Another group of villagers are scattered in a nearby apple orchard, they pick apples and carry them to the village, including children.

Everyone is in the fields; summer, gather together to harvest the grain. It gives the impression that the women are running the affairs, throwing instructions to each other in an authoritative tone, carrying, moving. The men are sitting on the side

to Gilling

On the second day we headed to the village of Ghiling/Geiling. This is a longer walking day of climbing and stunning views and you should start it early. In general, it is worth starting trekking in Nepal at an early hour because often rain comes at noon or in our case – winds. They are accompanied by dust and you should equip yourself with sunglasses, a face shield and a windbreaker. While walking, the landscapes change, more shapes, more colors. Gilling is a bigger village. Some people choose to sleep first in Syanboche, a small place on the way with a few guesthouses. Depends on the walking power. Something doesn’t make sense about the Mustang. Something that feels like a mistake maybe. So many landscapes and colors and shapes. So many opposites living peacefully together. It does not make sense. Desert and snow and red cliffs and water. Every day we thought we had reached the peak, and every day it broke anew.

The next village where we sleep is Dhakmar – a village characterized by the red cliffs that surround it. Along the route most of the time we were alone. There is something almost relaxing about this walk, between impressive and untouched spaces. We didn’t rush anywhere and mainly stared for a long time, mesmerized by all this beauty that rested on our eyes no matter where they turned. In the evening the cold enters and penetrates inside and can reach minus 15 degrees. There is a special cold in the Mustang, a cold that we are not used to, and you should equip yourself appropriately and bring shk.

This is a relatively easy trip and there is plenty of time and ways to do it, so there is no rush and you can mainly enjoy the view and take a lot of pictures, “One step two pictures” the guide laughed at us. There is a jeep trail that you can connect to along its length. You have to take into account that the conditions are minimal – this is a less-touristy trek, there are not always many sleeping options, and there is not always electricity. There were evenings when we were content with candles and the flame of the hearth – the main gathering place after the sun goes down.

A long walking day of climbing and stunning views and you should start it early

Next destination – Charang

We continued towards Charang (Chrang/Tsarang). The soles of the shoes, the hallmark of the roads in Nepal, accompany us throughout the trek. We sometimes encounter wandering horses and herds of buffalo. After we pass the village of Gami, there are still about 5 hours of walking to Charang. The winds are starting to get stronger and I remember the whistling of the village women, accusing them of inviting them. Along the villages you can sometimes see Tibetan monks with red dresses on the roofs and women in traditional Tibetan dresses. I have never before met a people as patriotic and noble as the Tibetan people whose history is such a daily part of their being.

Lo Manthang – for many tourists this is the last point they reach. Shortly before reaching the village there is a beautiful observation point decorated with colorful prayer flags typical of Nepal. It is a relatively large village with many guesthouses and a hot shower, a rare commodity along the trek. A local farmer came our way, he was a monk in India for 18 years and a monk here in Mustang for 31 years. Today he is a farmer and helps his brother in the guesthouse. He tells us the history and the battles that took place here. When we ask him where the border point with China is, he corrects us gently, but firmly “Tibet”.

approaching the border

We chose to continue another day closer to the border and a trip to the villages that follow, Choser and Nyamdo, simple and small villages, with ancient mud buildings and a small stream that accompanies them. These are remote places where the entire presence of a human being here feels completely accidental. Tourists can reach the village of Nombrog where there is a check point for the border. The locals are allowed to continue to the border itself and the residents of Lu Mentang are allowed to cross the border twice a year for ten days. This is a relatively higher point and it is recommended to sleep here for two nights in order for the body to get used to the altitude.

In the last two days we chose to spend time again in Chosang, the first village where we slept. Something about the intimacy of the village, the people, the plantations. They have time, they are in no hurry. Climb the trees, pick apples, harvest wheat (and peace). My attention is caught by a girl returning to the village; She carries a basket on her back, a matter of effort on her part, looking for balance. Too many apples. The sun is setting and darkness is falling. There is no one in the fields anymore, silence prevails and forgets the joyful whistles. The winds also stopped. There are moments like this, of real silence.

These are remote places where the entire presence of a human being here feels completely accidental

Useful information for travelers to Mustang

How to get there – It is possible to take a flight from Pokhara to Jomsom, and from there continue the journey to Kagbeni. Or take a jeep from Pokhara to Kagbani. It is not recommended to travel by local buses because the road there is not good. I also recommend making sure beforehand that the roads are open.

Answers – The travel agencies recommend September to December and March to May. In any case, it is worthwhile, as before any trek in Nepal, to check the weather on reliable, local apps, local travelers and travel agencies.

Map of Mustang and the region, Northern Nepal: