This is Riccardo Tisci’s latest Burberry collection

Burberry’s spring/summer 2023 collection made its grand entrance in London on Monday after the London Fashion Week show was postponed out of respect for Queen Elizabeth II and the royal family. But not only the British fashion house experienced a special moment; this also applied to designer Riccardo Tisci. After almost five years with the fashion house, he showed his last collection for Burberry. He hands over the creative direction to Daniel Lee.

Originally set to take place in iconic Trafalgar Square, Burberry moved the show indoors, taking supermodels Naomi Campbell, Erin O’Connor, Karen Elson, Bella Hadid and Irina Shayk to showcase the sensuous, beach-inspired collection. Not only was the catwalk showered with stars, celebrities like Kanye West, Gillian Anderson, Simone Ashley, Stormzy and Erykah Badu also watched from the front row.

The collection itself offered a new sensuality that explored ‘body awareness’ with sheer slip dresses, lingerie-inspired tops and cut-out swimwear, some of which were also used as evening wear.

Image: Burberry SS23

Tisci said the SS23 collection was inspired by British beach life and the “tension between dressing and undressing, revealing and protecting, underwear and outerwear,” as part of his ongoing search for a new modern DNA for Burberry. “In the summer, the beach in the UK is a place where democracy meets a sense of community. It’s where people from all cultures can come together to enjoy simple things,” Tisci said in a statement. “I wanted to translate that ideology, that emotion into a collection. I wanted to express this reality, and this sense of togetherness and joy.”

Image: Burberry SS23

Burberry ready-to-wear SS23

This was not a collection inspired by the beauty of the British coast, such as the cliffs, sand or shells, but rather by the coming together of different people and the beach itself, Tisci adding that he sees the beach as a “place of community and liberation”.

This sense of freedom and embracing one’s own body was evident throughout the collection, with outerwear and items inspired by underwear, swimwear and lingerie, all paying tribute to the unpredictable British weather.

Image: Burberry SS23

Statement looks included swimwear integrated into floor-length dresses, with built-in bodysuits emphasized by cut-outs around the waist, crotch and hips. Sparkling swimsuits were worn over other dresses, and some looks featured cutouts that revealed tiny bikini tops. Swimwear featuring Burberry’s famous check was also worn over jumpsuits printed with monograms.

For men, SS23 focused on streetwear: suits were spotted alongside wide casual trousers, sweatshirts and T-shirts, and bold checked jackets were combined with lace and tulle. For the women, bleached denim was used in skirts and jackets with a high waist.

Image: Burberry SS23
Image: Burberry SS23

Tisci also added playful touches to the collection in the form of quilted and sequined inflatable pockets on the arms that make you seem to float on. These are contrasted with the sleek silhouettes. He also added padded bracelets and oversized bows to a range of elegant velvet evening dresses. The British beach feeling was completed by sophisticated hats in lace, leather and transparent durable PVC, goggles with crystals that serve as jewelry and earrings with shark elements.

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.UK. Translation and adaptation from English into Dutch: Eugenia Melissen Ferrer.

Image: Burberry SS23
Image: Burberry SS23

Source: fashionunited.nl by fashionunited.nl.

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