We entrust the singing of the beauties and delightful charm of the winter landscape to the poet, we would rather talk about the cold that is very noticeable on our skin, and about the tasks and pleasures of winter motorcycling. True, most bikers, who don’t have to be forced into a saddle, take good or bad care of their bikes (which will also be discussed) and, depending on the density of their blood, wait in haste or comatically for the spring of light spring to burst. Then there’s a thinner layer for bikers that, if you like it or not, squeezes the gas grip even when a soft snow cover covers the highway. These lines are especially for these tough guys.
But before that, we deliver on our promise made above. Anyone who loves not only their bike but also their wallet won’t rest a few hours working to prepare for their pet’s winter vacation. The ceremony begins with thorough washing and drying. Disassemble the battery and take it to a specialist workshop, where it will be serviced, and you will receive it clean back in April. Winter the engine so that the wheels do not touch the ground (a block under the engine will raise the front wheel). Fill the fuel tank to the brim, thus preventing any corrosion, fill the cylinder with a little oil in the spark plug hole for the same purpose; then slowly step on the throttle lever so that the piston lubricates the oil on the cylinder wall. You can now deftly screw the candle back on. Apply a thin layer of industrial Vaseline to the chrome-plated surface. (But remember, oil and grease is a deadly enemy of rubber; keep lubricant away from the wheel rim!)
The motorcycle is not harmed by cold, but rather by heat, heat, steam, or even humid air. In a dry place – preferably away from open flames, if this is the case – “embed” it in an iron pipe, cover it with an old blanket or a properly fixed pvc foil. That is all.
There are more things for someone who is still forced to ride a motorcycle for one reason or another. Our motorcyclist must primarily winterize his vehicle, that is, make it operational and driving safe. Every motorcycle, regardless of make or method of working, has two vulnerabilities: the electrical equipment and the carburetor. A prerequisite for safe driving is a flawless frame for running the wheels in line, tires with sufficient tread and tread pattern and evenly decelerating brakes. (Also, of course, the motorcycle’s proper clothing is paramount. I’d also list the “bodywork” here: the foot and windshield.)
Replacing damaged insulated wires is ultimately cheaper than repairing, splicing, or folding them. This is because if you only get soaked on the highway once and the incorrectly frugal motorcyclist ends up in the ditch due to broken lighting, you will have to pay a significantly higher bill. Have the electrical equipment, which is a few years old and slightly older, inspected by a specialist workshop and its replacement parts ruthlessly replaced. Cleaning and adjusting the circuit breaker is just as important as replacing the blacking bulbs with new ones. (The “aggressiveness” of the red tail light is at least as important as the intense beam of the headlights. Think of those who are approaching in the back, from a distance, and may even want to overtake, but they can only succeed if they detect the motorcycle in front of them in good time. )
It does well to relocate the capacitor to a protected location in the headlight housing (and attach a spare capacitor next to it). Then, when the spark disappears once on the fly – because that can happen, unfortunately – it simply connects the wire to a faultless backup and you can continue on your way.
If your gasoline tap is water-bagged, clean it up (you’ll be surprised how much “non-gasoline” you’ll find in it). It is advisable to unscrew the water-bagless taps and collect the spilled petrol in a clean container. Pour 1-2 liters of gasoline into the dismantled tank and shake it with a few vigorous movements. Gasoline filtered through filter paper or a dense web leaves the tank dirt. (It’s better to see this again than on a snow-covered country road, in the nozzle of a disassembled atomizer.) Replacing or cleaning the air filter can also improve engine reliability. (A dirty filter will overfill the mixture and the engine will stall.)
And now he comes with what he should have started with: the dressing of our biker. It is a fact, we have dealt with this topic several times in this place, but there are always young bikers, let alone beginners, who still need advice. although they are beginning to deal with it. For some, it is not yet possible to dress for the purpose in specialty stores.
It has been proven practically that layered clothing holds heat better. Be careful, however, not to fall over the other side of the knitted vest. We can’t move easily in too many clothes, and a biker needs free movement while driving. The last layer, ie the overcoat, must be water-repellent in all conditions and must not allow the slice to pass through or neck or wrists. You have to meet two more conditions: it covers your knees lengthwise and should be so wide that these covered knees can press the wings of the jacket to the side of the fuel tank.
Wool around your neck and waterproof gloves complete your motorcycle outerwear. What should be the footwear? In fact, rubber boots would be best, but in this – on a longer journey – our biker’s feet could freeze, even if you put on fine wool stockings. The best solution is a foot guard that can be modified with clever hands so that it can steal some of the heat from the cylinder. After all, what should be the footwear? A comfortable leather boots. What else can I say? It requires a slight winter and pleasant riding
The engine travels at a relatively good pace on a snow-covered country road when the rear of the vehicle suddenly begins to “swim”. For our biker, it’s the first one full in the saddle, and that’s presumably the reason he grabs hard on the handlebars, stretches his waist, and pulls his leg down on the ground with some kind of spring, where he hopes for safety. “Just don’t brake,” our biker thinks, because you’ve read about it. But now the rear of the engine, which is almost competing with the front wheel, is definitely starting to slide to the left. Our poor biker is marinated in the sweat drops of fright. In his final despair and fall to the ground, he deftly lays his paripas in the snow cover, and in the end falls to his side.
At the expense of others, the smart (motor) learns!
The story above shows that the suffering subject of the narrative was frightened by the so-called “swimming” of the engine and therefore did not act wisely. Fear is a bad adviser, because if he had trusted himself, he would have had more direct contact with his engine, that is, he would have squeezed the fuel tank better with his knee, he would have been preparing for a world record decision in weightlifting, and last but not least: he would not have sought refuge in the good old motherland with his feet.
It was a known fact that the engine signals in time what it is about to do, you just have to notice it. In our case, the connection between the wheel and the ground was broken, i.e. the engine did not pull. This dangerous condition must be eliminated as a matter of urgency by applying some energy to the rear wheel with the engine. If the transmission ratio is high and the engine only responds to the throttle by jerking, switch back with a firm motion and feel the throttle (without overdriving the rear wheel). Of course, the foot rests there on the footrest, and we control the motorcycle with a loose elbow posture and a gentle steering motion.
Golden rule: we steer the vehicle as often as possible. So: if the rear wheel slips to the right, steer to the right, or to the left if the rear wheel of the engine breaks to the left! This is exactly what needs to be done on the icy road as well.
The most professional, the cross-riders, prove that they are not happy to get rid of the footrests even in the most delicate position. But also noteworthy are the scenes where the crossmotors, away from the ideal vertical position, are steered by the riders moving their bodies and avoiding a seemingly certain fall. A biker can do a lot for safe driving, but not everything; there are times when the cross-champion is not able to avert the downfall either. Worn rubber or a damaged, elongated frame can cause such an unfortunate incident. Countless warning examples warn the engine that in a similar case, it is wiser not to embark on a journey, at least until these artificial obstacles are overcome.
Conditions for safe travel include additional engine equipment. The most important and useful is the foot and windshield, as well as the blanket to keep out cold and moisture. These items, for example, are sold ready-to-install in GDR specialist shops. Domestic retail can only serve a motorcyclist looking for a footwear (and that’s a result that AM has something to do with), but unfortunately not the one who wants to buy a tire. Our biker would already give up the longitudinally striped tire ideal for the front wheel and would love to fit the traditional pattern – if you could. And, as mentioned, worn rubber that can’t hold on holds a lot of dangers. It’s risky to get on the road with such worn rubber even in June.
We’ve written a lot about the insidious fog. The most important rule should be to make the engine look good. So turn on the dimmed light – perhaps more importantly – clean the red prism of the tail light to give as much light as possible to those coming from behind. (More recently, a special rear light that produces a significantly brighter light has been produced by a foreign industry that has recognized the dangers of a weaker red tail light.) It goes without saying that the usual poor visibility conditions do not tolerate any traffic slack. Discipline is not replaced by even the greatest practice, only unceasing attention and caution.
Watch out! Where there is fog or mist, the ground may be wet and slippery!…
Source: Autó-Motor by www.automotor.hu.
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