The culinary art of the Le Tout-Paris brasserie and the Italian restaurant Langosteria

Famous or not, starred or not, Parisian restaurants from bistros to popular brasserie passing through historical monuments (La Tour d’Argent) are experiencing a resurgence of activity, attendance, and affluence never seen for ages.

The public of eaters, gourmets, sweepers of good restaurants are looking for old or new addresses of all categories: they are full in the evening and sometimes at noon. Mandatory reservation.

Deprived of the pleasures of the mouth for several months, cohorts of gourmets besieged restaurants in Paris and large cities such as Marseille, Nice, Lyon with the aim of satisfying this very French passion for good food, the pleasure of the taste buds, and happiness. at the table which characterizes our compatriots with sharp palates: to live to feast.

Here are two new drop-off points to note on your tablets.

All-Paris à la Samaritaine

In the historic department store building, facing the Seine, the LVMH group has opened several restaurants supervised by the three-star chef of Saint-Tropez, Arnaud Donckele, brilliant creator of La Vague d’Or on the Bouillabaisse beach: the best table in the Provençal village with worldwide fame.

It is there, in this dream location by the sea, that Bernard Arnault, an adopted Tropezian, was able to appreciate the creativity, talent and good nature of this northern chef whom good connoisseurs place at the top of the hierarchy. of the best chefs in France, the equal of Pierre Gagnaire, Alain Ducasse and Michel Troisgros.

Arnaud Donckele at the top of the master chefs pyramid, why not? The Michelin awarded him three stars in 2013. It was Bernard Arnault, dazzled by his fantastic talent, who appointed him for the post of chef of the gourmet restaurant Plénitude at Cheval Blanc Paris, open since September 7 on the first floor of the ancient Samaritan woman, in the heart of the Iis arrondissement. Arnaud Donckele, according to whom “The essential ingredients of a cooking recipe are heart and affection: cooking is an act of love, of generosity so that everyone can discover their Proust madeleine”, is an admirable creator of dream dishes, an encyclopedist of haute cuisine in action. He deserves a visit to dinner.

The lobby of Cheval Blanc Paris. | Alexandre tabaste

For now, the French brasserie Le Tout-Paris, located on the seventh floor by the elevator, offers a breathtaking view of the city bathed in lights. This contemporary brasserie is inspired by the authentic spirit of the old Art Deco bistros. The address touches the sky from morning until nightfall: outside, a terrace and wooded nooks for lunch or dinner in the open air under the stars.

The dining room of Le Tout-Paris restaurant. | Alexandre tabaste

In fact, here is a chic brasserie of around thirty classic dishes escorted by seven sauces including béarnaise, smoked vegetable sabayon, six flowery peppers, grenobloise with hazelnut and yuzu, yellow wine sauce, virgin olive oil. summer … and six sides: Pont-Neuf fries, green bean and butter salad, seasonal vegetables, pilau rice, vegetable tian with basil, black olive mash with marjoram which appetite. All this is very well designed for about sixty place settings.

At the restaurant Le Tout-Paris, prime rib, bone marrow and Pont-Neuf apples. | Cheval Blanc Paris

Some examples of dishes offered on Chef William Béquin’s menu:

  • All-Paris-style Les Halles gratinée (18 euros)
  • Grapefruit sea bream gravlax rubbed with pink berries (21 euros)
  • Steamed and crayfish cake, velouté heads with green anise (24 euros)

At the restaurant Le Tout-Paris, the gratinée des Halles. | Cheval Blanc Paris

  • Beef confit in ravioli, lemongrass mushroom broth (26 euros)
  • Veal’s head with seasoned herbs (26 euros)
  • Langoustines, mayonnaise, tongs, mimosa tart (32 euros)

At the restaurant Le Tout-Paris, langoustines mayonnaise, mimosa tartlet. | Cheval Blanc Paris

All for one

Choice of cooking: a la plancha, grilled, roasted with thyme

  • Poultry (29 euros)
  • Beef tenderloin (52 euros)
  • Octopus (36 euros)
  • Blue lobster (55 euros)

All for two

  • Sole small boat cooked meunière Grenoble, mashed brown butter (135 euros)
  • Monkfish on the barbecue, vegetable sabayon, pilau rice and vegetable papillote (75 euros)

Low heat

  • Blanquette, cheek, sweetbreads and veal breast, young vegetables with verbena and rice pilaf (42 euros, good price)
  • Cod Jean Giono style, potatoes and saffron fennel, a discovery (42 euros)

The pleasures of dessert

  • Paris-Brest (18 euros)
  • The floating island, a delight (16 euros)

At the restaurant Le Tout-Paris, the Paris-Brest. | Cheval Blanc Paris

  • Rum baba (21 euros)
  • The pear charlotte (18 euros)

At the restaurant Le Tout-Paris, the pear charlotte. | Cheval Blanc Paris

We are stunned by the abundance of preparations, garnishes, the choice of cooking … All of this is part of the well-understood French culinary memory. Yes, this pointed nomenclature of innovative or classic plates titillates the appetite, more generous than any brasserie in Paris.

At the restaurant Le Tout-Paris, brunch. | Cheval Blanc Paris

In addition to the panoramic view over the rooftops of the capital and the Montparnasse tower, the beautiful restaurant offers five private boxes and sixty seats, no more.

A table of excellence that is quite exotic, high-end customers, black truffles (35 euros) and caviar (65 euros). We understand the keen enthusiasm for the establishment, which has found its audience from the opening. It’s full every night.

Private box at the restaurant Le Tout-Paris. | Alexandre tabaste

8, quai du Louvre 75001 Paris. Tel .: 01 79 35 50 22. Card from 90 to 140 euros. No closure.


The history of the Langosteria group begins in Milan around a fine cuisine restaurant whose concept brings together Italian roots, a contemporary approach and the commendable desire to offer the best of seafood – hence the brand. known on the other side of the Alps.

Langosteria restaurant counter. | Alexandre tabaste

Opposite Tout-Paris, on the same floor, the LVMH group has installed this Milan restaurant with around one hundred seats, run in the kitchen by chef Michele Biassoni, author of around thirty dishes inspired by the tradition of mamma, enriched by welcome creations such as the royal scampi from Galicia with basil and lemon sauce from Amalfi (80 euros for two), the red tuna carpaccio, smoked eggplant and San Marzano tomatoes and basil (30 euros), turbot tempura and peppers with a Mediterranean vinaigrette (30 euros).

At the Langosteria restaurant, the room brigade. | Cecile & Guillaume

The crudo di mare includes the gamberi rossi, trumpet zucchini and lime sauce (35 euros), the langoustines and homemade foie gras tartare enriched with a Sauternes reduction (38 euros), the amberjack sashimi with jalapeño sauce ( 28 euros), the tagliata of sea bream, capers and Amalfi lemon (32 euros).

At the Langosteria restaurant, the langoustines and homemade foie gras tartare with Sauternes reduction. | Langosteria

Among the current specialties, crispy rice in Milanese and gambero rosso (on the menu), fried gamberi rossi, scampi and squid with wasabi mayonnaise sauce (35 euros) and Catalan gamberi rossi, tomatoes, celery and red onions , a very nice well spiced plate (35 euros).

At the Langosteria restaurant, tuna carpaccio, smoked aubergines and sunny basil tomatoes. | Langosteria

In the eagerly awaited “pasta” chapter, the spaghetti al pomodoro (24 euros), the linguine with Brittany blue lobster (45 euros), the orrechiette, cream of beans and seafood (35 euros) and the paccheri at the sea bass , olives, capers and lemon zest (70 euros for two), one of the most successful preparations.

In the fish and shellfish section, the denti royal, grilled red endive and yellow tomato sauce (45 euros), the turbot with chard and vongole sauce (55 euros), the Sicilian gamberoni rossi, eggplant and basil, cooked over charcoal ( 45 euros).

These elaborate preparations go well beyond the basic repertoire of trattoria. Likewise the King Crab 2007 (60 euros) and the roast octopus, cream of potatoes and paprika, cooked over charcoal (25 euros): beautiful innovative dishes.

At the Langosteria restaurant, the King Crab 2007 Special Edition. | Langosteria

This is why the Langosteria, which is very lively in the evening, offers a set of seductive specialties from La Botte, concocted with skill and abundance.

Very few Italian tables in Paris offer such a variety of plates like these rare gnocchetti with gamberi rossi, yellow datterino tomato and basil, a tasty and gourmet set (35 euros). These are discoveries that delighted the faithful from the opening with fanfare.

We end with a delicious soft, creamy tiramisu (18 euros), panna cotta with figs (20 euros) and a glass of Château d’Yquem: more than sixty rare vintages, the 1933 at 18,000 euros, unheard of in France. . A collection that creates dreams: it is the greatest wine in the world.

At the Langosteria restaurant, the terrace. | Cecile & Guillaume

It is the most popular Italian in the capital, we only serve dinner, a party for the palate, a taste escape as much by the plate as by the glass. Tasting menu at 130 euros (six courses). Chic clientele who do not skimp on the delicacies of the mouth.

8, quai du Louvre 75001 Paris. Tel .: 01 79 35 50 33. No closing. Bill around 100 euros.

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