the best of You cook this week – Liberation


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Edito: Elisabeth Scotto, the kitchen loses a research head

Elisabeth Scotto is no more and it is one of the greatest culinary authors who is gone. We owe her a lot because she was one of the pillars of the kitchen sheets of Elle, a real institution for those who like to cook. When we started fricassee in the last century, we cut them religiously every week before trying the recipes on the weekend. It was already a cult object in itself with its photo on the front, a kind of Instagram (of paper) before its time and on the back the list of ingredients, the preparation time, the cooking time, the recipe and some tips. A model of rigor, inventiveness, curiosity, like its author. A far cry from the roughly copied and pasted, poorly translated recipes that are rampant today on the Net as well as on paper.

Elisabeth Scotto was also the story of three sisters: Michèle Carles, Marianne Comolli and Elisabeth Scotto, who wrote numerous cookbooks under the name of the Scotto sisters. We always come back to their culinary bible (1) and this dish that we love: “fried rib steaks with Banyuls vinegar and anchovies”.

We also really liked shiso in custard published by Editions de l’Epure in 2019 where Elisabeth Scotto explained her taste for spices that awaken a purring dish; food and utensils found close to home or on the other side of the world. She “loved to have fun with food” and campaigned for indiscipline in the kitchen by taking the pepper out of the routine of everyday life and by “liberating” ingredients such as vanilla, cumin, cinnamon, lemongrass, saffron, sumac. Behind her elegance, discretion and kindness, Elisabeth Scotto “was extremely funny”, says Sabine Bucquet, founder of Editions de l’Epure. “She always had the right word about people. She didn’t mince words about the culinary press. She was always testing recipes. He was a real kitchen seeker.”

(1) The Scotto Sisters’ Culinary Bible: 500 Essential Recipes, ed. Oak, 2014.

Napkin rings: in the Latin Quarter, Selva suits us

In the galaxy of “South American” restaurants that have opened in Paris in the past two years, we have found, among the ceviche stalls, street-food or in the super stylish and Instagram-compatible tables, to drink and eat . This trend is slowly taking root in the capital, so inevitably, sometimes, some rush into the breach without seriously doing their homework and struggle to convince as their interpretation of traditional dishes from Peru, Argentina or even Brazil seems risky. It was therefore a little on our guard that we landed at Selva, a few steps from the Cluny garden, in the Latin Quarter. Colombian chef Felipe Camargo’s cuisine quickly swept away our reservations: very nice plate of tender octopus, bell pepper chimichurri, beetroot powder, beautiful piece of fish cooked over embers, garnished with mojo verde sauce, fresh herbs and salsa. criolla, or galliard churrasco Nikkei (also grilled sirloin, roasted potatoes and Nikkei chimichurri)… The price range is relatively high for a restaurant of this category (allow about 50 euros per head, excluding drinks), but it remains a nice discovery in this neighborhood where prices are going up fast anyway. Simple but good cocktails and friendly team as a bonus.

Selva, 22, rue du Sommerard, 75005. Telephone: 09 81 10 21 88.

The keel: almost too beautiful to be Gevrey-Chambertin

Burgundy is unique in that there are only two major grape varieties that flourish there: pinot noir, in red, and chardonnay, in white. You have to be quite a magician to draw from these same grapes an aromatic palette of such great amplitude depending on the slopes, the sunshine, the soils, but also the types of barrel, the aging times. Philippe Pacalet is one. This winegrower, who is also a merchant, cut his teeth with his uncle, Marcel Lapierre, one of the pioneers of natural wines in Beaujolais. He has kept his habits there with a few windmill plots, but it is in Burgundy that he vinifies his grapes in the most beautiful appellations in the world: aloxe-corton, chabolle-musigny, chassagne-montrachet, échezeaux, Meursault, Pommard, Puligny-Montrachet… For this Gevrey-Chambertin 2018, he brings together like a bouquet of beautiful Pinot Noir vines at least fifty years old and vinifies them delicately, without forcing either the wood or the fruit. Result: a wine full of freshness, with a nose of cherry and blueberry, and a bouncy but suave mouthfeel, with great joyful drinkability. A very fine wine, like everything Philippe Pacalet does.

Cellar price: 50 euros


Source: Libération by www.liberation.fr.

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