Klustip: you should pay attention to this if you want to hang a door | Home & Garden

Our hall contains six interior doors: for the central heating cupboard, the meter cupboard, washing machine cupboard, bathroom, toilet and one to the living room. All beautiful new panel doors, of which only those to the living room with glass, which is nice because of the light. My girl didn’t like the doors during the viewing of the house. “Ugly,” she said. She is not known for ministering.

When we were still living in Amsterdam, she once chased me into a container to fish out five old-fashioned panel doors. We incorporated three of these into a wall cupboard with a box bed in the living room. One of the other remaining doors fitted exactly in front of the meter cupboard. She had measured. The paint was peeling on all sides so it had to be bald. I don’t know what had been put on over the years, but it was no mean feat.

But after two afternoons it was beautiful! Time to hang him. A job of nothing. Can you too!

There are a few things to keep in mind. For example, the height and width of the door must – of course – correspond to the rebate dimensions of the frame.

You can assume that the maker of the frame has taken the standard dimensions of doors into account. But I was dealing with a panel door from the last century. Our house has been renovated this century, so with new custom doors. Pieces wider, so that you can pass through them later with a wheelchair; they call it life-proof.

The door that I had to replace was from a meter cupboard. There is no need for a wheelchair and was therefore almost the right size. You would think that if the door is wider and higher, you would just take some off it. Then it is narrower and shorter, put some slats on it and you’re done. This would be fine with a flat door, but with a panel door it is slightly different.

If you take off too much or thick it, then the relationship between the framework and the panels is lost and that will not get any better. They did, however, make the bottom pillar of panel doors much wider than the middle and top pillar so that the door could be planed to size at the bottom.

For example, a floor could not be completely level, a floor was placed over the existing floor or there was a threshold. But our old panel door had already been planed to size once, so I was left with a considerable gap between door and floor. Fortunately I was able to solve that with a threshold.

For hanging you need hinges (hanging side) and some kind of closure (closing side). To make the door turn properly, you need a hanging seam all around.

The entire door is therefore made 2 mm smaller all around. Then plan the door diagonally inwards on the hanging and closing side on the short side. That’s called arm planing. This way the door will not get stuck or get stuck on the frame. Of course, all of this had already been done at our door, decades ago, and so it could only be hung one way. And coincidentally not the right one.

The solution was, in my case, to change the direction of rotation, so swap hinges and closing side.

Curious how I did that? There is an explanation for you with a few useful tips and facts on my YouTube channel Mulder Makes.

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Source: De Telegraaf by www.telegraaf.nl.

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