Avillez wins star with Encanto Vegetarian: the Michelin Guide’s novelties in 2023

In Lisbon, the vegetarian Encanto, and the Japanese Kabuki and Kanazawa. In Porto, Euskalduna Studio and Le Monument. This is the new quintet with 1 star that Michelin suggests for 2023, in addition to an exclusive guide presentation gala for Portugal next year. Big news was announced tonight in Toledo.

The inspectors’ astonishment reached Encanto, which José Avillez opened in the spring, and which has already won 1 star in the guide, the first for a vegetarian restaurant in Portugal. The Portuguese chef thus has a total of 4 stars divided between the two at Belcanto in Lisbon, another recently won at Tasca, in the new guide to Dubai, which is now added to this one at Encanto.

Another reason to be dazzled seems to be the Portuguese fish, as two Japanese are among the stars. Kabuki Lisboa at the Ritz hotel – where Cura already exists, also with 1 star – opened less than a year ago (December 2021) is part of a solid group with 20 years of experience in Japanese restaurants already with stars in other cities and which had a recent split between the founding partners. Receives its first star with a Portuguese team led by the manager of the previous Kabuki Madrid. A sort of belated recognition seems to be what led to Kanazawa’s first star, which was left in very good hands. Paulo Morais took over the restaurant in August 2017 after the return to Japan of Tomoaki Kanazawa, who in 2015 had opened the space in his own name to serve exquisite Japanese kaiseki cuisine.

Michelin wants to promote Portugal “as an unavoidable European gastronomic destination”

Porto is increasingly at the heart of gastronomy. It adds two more stars with the attribution of one to the Euskalduna Studio by Vasco Coelho Santos, one of the most talked about candidates in recent years who has now reached recognition, with his branch and small room on Rua de Santo Ildefonso. On an opposite scale, Le Monument, in Aliados, serves French cuisine of local inspiration with the experienced Julien Montbabut returning to the circuit of stars where he had already been in previous restaurants. In the green star category, the novelty is the attribution of distinction to the restaurant Mesa de Lemos, in Silgueiros.

But the night began with another piece of news. The world director of Michelin guides, Gwendal Poullennec, said in Toledo that at the end of 2023, the 2024 edition will be announced at a separate event just for Portugal. The objective, according to those responsible for the French publication, is “to celebrate and value the growing excellence of the Portuguese gastronomic scene”. And he reinforced: “we want to contribute to the promotion of Portugal as an unavoidable European gastronomic destination”. Michelin thanks those who support this initiative and adds that “it is already working with Turismo de Portugal in the organization of this Gala”. Further announcing that “the specific dates and venue will be revealed during the first quarter of 2023”.

There has been talk behind the scenes for several months about the possibility of having a separate edition of the guide, and another step has been taken in this direction, which will not imply a change in the evaluation model or in the scale of awards to be attributed. There will be a greater projection of the Michelin brand and a likely improvement in commercial exchanges resulting from this visibility. In 2018, the presentation ceremony had already taken place in Lisbon, but in the logic of rotation between cities, which until then had always been Spanish. After several efforts and insistence on the Portuguese side, it was possible to hold the event in the Carlos Lopes pavilion.

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The gala is taking place at the El Grieco congress center in Toledo, and to be streamed live on Youtube🇧🇷 There were no new two-star promotions, but neither did any restaurants lose their existing ones. As for the famous three stars, Expresso knows that on the Portuguese side they will continue to be a mirage. But more news is still expected for the Portuguese edition of the guide…

Seven new Bib Gourmand

Things really seem to be changing in Michelin’s approach to Portugal, and the Bib Gourmand selection continues to be renewed. Last year, there were only two novelties, but for 2023 there are seven new entries, with emphasis on the arrival of Marlene Vieira with her ZunZum, and the gastronomic and ambitious Marlene, is right next door… Vasco Coelho Santos enters in a big way to join another distinction in 2023, now with Semea. And two Bib Gourmand outside the big cities with À Mesa in Tavira and the work done in Rio by Paulo André in Vila do Conde. Come the event in Portugal, the dynamics and commitment of national restaurants seem to be stronger than ever.

Information

Michelin Guide Portugal 2023

(alphabetical order)

00 Restaurants with 3 stars

07 Restaurants with 2 stars

31 Restaurants with 1 star (5 new ones)

07 New restaurants with Bib Gourmand

2 stars

1. Alma (Lisbon)

2. Belcanto (Lisbon)

3. Boa Nova Tea House (Liça da Palmeira)

4. The Golden Rooster (Funchal)

5. Ocean (Armação de Pêra)

6. The Yeatman (Vila Nova de Gaia)

7. Vila Joya (Albufeira)

1 star

1. 100 Maneiras (Lisbon)

2. The Kitchen (Guimarães)

3. Seeing Tavira (Tavira)

4. South (Lagos)

5. Antiqvvm (Porto)

6. Bon Bon (Carvoeiro)

7. Casa da Calçada (Amarante)

8. Healing (Lisbon)

9. Eleven (Lisbon)

10. Encanto (Lisbon) – new to guide

11. Eneko Lisboa

12. Epur (Lisbon)

13. Spur (Reguengos de Monsaraz)

14. Euskalduna Studio (Porto) – new to guide

15. Trading Post (Lisbon)

16. Fifty Seconds by Martin Berasategui (Lisbon)

17. Fortress of Guincho (Cascais)

18. G Pousada (Bragança)

19. Gusto (Almancil)

20. Lab by Sergi Arola (Sintra)

21. Kabuki Lisbon – new in the guide

22. Kanazawa (Lisbon) – new to guide

23. Le Monument (Porto) – new in guide

24. Crazy (Lisbon)

25. Mesa de Lemos (Silgueiros, Viseu) – awarded the Green Star (Novelty)

26. Midori (Sintra)

27. Pedro Lemos (Porto)

28. Vila Foz (Porto)

29. View (Portimão)

30. Views (Vila Nova de Cacela)

31. William (Funchal)

Bib Gourmand – New 2023

(quality/price ratio up to €35)

1. At the Table – Tavira

2. Carnal – Lisbon

3. Cave – Porto

4. Office – Lisbon

5. Rio by Paulo André – Vila do Conde

6. Semea by Euskalduna – Porto

7. Zunzum Gastrobar – Lisbon


Source: Expresso by expresso.pt.

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